"HOW DO YOU RUN A STOVEPIPE THROUGH A COMBUSTIBLE WALL OR CEILING?
You don't. But if absolutely necessary, the following are approved methods:
- Build a 3.5-inch thick brick masonry wall framed into the combustible wall, with a 12-inch minimum clearance from the clay liner to combustibles.
- Use a solid, insulated, listed factory-built chimney, with a 9-inch air space to combustibles.
- Use a 24-gauge sheet-steel chimney connector with ventilated thimble, plus 6 inches of glass fiber insulation.
- Use a solid, insulated, listed factory-built chimney over a 24-gauge chimney connector, with 1 inch of air space, plus 2 inches from outer wall of chimney section and combustibles.
That makes it sound so hard to fit in a small space. I was looking at propane on-demand water heaters for my future tiny house and they involve much the same. I think I'm going electric which requires none of that but does need 230 volt power. Maybe the Native American teepees had something with the hole in the roof.
ReplyDeleteMaybe so! But the fire was in the middle of the floor...
ReplyDeleteThe stove has to be 12" from a combustible wall, even WITH a non-combustible spacer, and that has to reach 3' from the stove in any direction. In a 10 x 10 foot space this is not looking so likely.
Hence the electric heaters!
Take a look at the Morso 1410 or the Jotul 603. Back wall clearance can be as little as 6" as can double wall chimney pipe. It takes a little floor space, but it heats when there is no electricity. It would make your shed a shelter in an ice storm or other power down event.
ReplyDeleteOops, that's Jotul model 602!
ReplyDeleteThanks, I looked at both of them! That's pretty amazing to get by with only 6" clearance. The Morso squirrel is really nice...
ReplyDeleteI have used a Morso since 1979. They are wonderful stoves and yes, you do want a squirrel. It's perfectly sized and it's light enough to move in the non-heating season. I wouldn't hesitate to set aside some space for it.
ReplyDeleteThanks! I was out measuring clearances today, that WOULD fit. I was put off by the price, though...not sure I can swing that.
ReplyDeleteHi Kate, Cost it out over 20 years and it's not so bad per year. Electricity is never going to be cheaper than it is today, and an armload of sticks will keep you warm all day in a 10x10 building. It will pay for itself in a few years and be a joy for the rest of your life.
ReplyDeleteFire code for 'listed' stoves in the USA says that clearances stated on stoves can be cut by 2/3rds if a sheet metal shield is used with 1" ceramic spacers are used to set it off a combustible wall.
I love your blog and your ARTWORK! I have no talent that way, but I really appreciate those who do.
Well, you're probably right there! For some reason I thought it was about $400, just saw $1000. OUCH. I do love to burn sticks and scraps...neither of us is really going to be able to cut and split wood, bad backs and arthritis!
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, that's how I did the stove I have here in the house...I bought a stove pad at an old hardware store and mounted it with ceramic spacers. Works great! I'm thinking all this may be a project for next year's budget though...if I start saving NOW... ;-)
And thank you, you've got plenty of talent yourself, I looked at your blog! Once upon a time I would have LOVED that tool you made!